Got up early again, this time heading to Mansfield, with a purpose. We had arranged to go riding nearby tomorrow, and we arrived in town fairly early. We learned the Mansfield Hotel had a restaurant and bar that had wifi, so we headed in for lunch. I had a bunch of logistical work to do, cancelling and making reservations in Malaysia after our big change of vacation plans, and the wifi was slow, so it took me most of the afternoon to manage. Finally we headed out to another free campsite in a State Park called Mt. Samaria, to a nice little site near a creek, with a couple of other campers. As we had eaten early at the hotel, we weren't terribly hungry, so we settled in early for the night, with the alarm on for extra early as we had a nearly 45 minute drive to where our day-long ride would start tomorrow.

Once again up with the alarm and on the road by 8:00, continuing to gasp in awe at the beauty of this Great Coast Highway. Apparently it was dedicated to the soldiers and sailors of The Great War, and built during the 20's and 30's, a remarkable engineering feat, without a doubt. Again, stunning all along the way. We stopped at a small animal, self-sustaining sanctuary shortly before we reached the 12 Apostles, because I wanted to get up close with as many Australian animals as we could. No Koalas, but we did get to pet some kangaroos, see some dingoes, and get close to a bunch of other birds and mammals. Plus I got my sheep fix! Every since we left New Zealand, where literally you couldn't drive for 15 minutes without passing flocks of sheep, I've been going through sheep withdrawal! Today, we managed to see sheep a couple of times, both in the sanctuary and along the road, so I've got my sheep fix for the day. Anyway, after we spent an hour walking around the 40 acres site, we bought a couple of cups of coffee and muffins and back on the road we went! We stopped at the 12 Apostles visitor center and walked down to the first lookout, then Hubby stayed behind while I walked the rest of the way, taking some incredible pictures of this remarkable phenomena, large sections of limestone have been washed away from sections of land, leaving free standing monuments of real estate. Amazing! We then made our way west along the coast, stopping at a whole series of these natural monuments, with names like The Arch, the Grotto, and London Bridge. In Port Campbell we stopped at the visitor center, where, unlike the national park center, we found some maps, and a lot of information about a famous shipwreck that happened in these parts back in 1878. Nearly 80 people on board, and only 2 survivors, only 4 bodies found, the rest washed out to sea. Was glad we finally got some information, we were surprised at how little is provided at the sites themselves. Hardly anything on how the erosion phenomenon occurred, almost nothing about the local flora and fauna, other than a few vague references to how hard it is for a few creatures to live on the harsh conditions of the coast, and an unkempt cemetery that's been mostly tarred over as a walkway, while the graves themselves are overgrown. Kind of sad, really. Anyway, after going as far as the Grotto, where I jumped a rock wall so that I could actually put my hand in the water, the Southern Ocean I soon learned, along with young man who wanted to get a couple of rocks for his turtle pen, Hubby and I headed out again. Having decided that we didn't have time to get all the way to Adelaide and still do all the things we wanted, we headed back to Port Campbell where we filled up on food and fuel, then north to another free campsite north of Ballarat in a regional park in Cresswick, passing through much more rural areas with lots of cattle and sheep (really got my sheep fix at the end of the day!), and settling into the woods early, by 6:30 tonight. No need for dinner! Just going to be early, reading, and will be up again in the morning!

Got up with the alarm this morning, as we anticipate a long drive today. Not sure how far, we're going, but we sort of have a plan to head along the Great Coast Road, apparently one of the most scenic routes in Australia, on our way to a place called the 12 Apostles, the equivalent of desert hoodoos, but along the shore of the Southern Ocean between the towns of Princeton and Port Campbell. What a gorgeous road! After driving through more beautiful countryside and forests, we turned out toward the Coast Road, and soon we were weaving along on a road reminiscent of 101 in California, a road literally cut into the side of a cliff, for miles and miles and miles! There were a number of cute little beachside towns along the way, but the road always went back to hanging just off the side of the cliff, which, being on the left side of the road, was the closest to the drop-off into the sea. Fantastic! After miles and miles of that kind of driving, and a stop in a little town for a fish and chips lunch, and later groceries, we found another free campsite (thanks Wiki-Camp Australia!) that literally was just above the Coast Road. So many camping areas are entirely unmarked, absolutely no signage, especially for the free ones, so if you didn't know it was there, you would drive right by. We turned onto a gravel road by a creek that immediately started climbing upwards, but not so dramatically that our rig didn't make it. There were several turnouts along the way, including one that actually overlooked the beach (that was already taken, darn it!), but we found an available spot near the top (there weren't many!) and settled in for the night, listening the distant surf pounding the beach below us. Fantastic!

We didn't bother to set the alarm last night, as we wanted to make sure we got caught up on our sleep, so as a result, we were barely making it out of the Holiday Park by check-out time of 10:00. We had a major problem with the hose for refilling our water tank, as there was some kind of adapter on the end to fit a different type of hose, and it was so tight, nothing I (or our burly young neighbor) could do to get it off. Of course, the tool box in the campervan doesn't include pliers, so we didn't know what we were going to do. Fortunately, as we moved over to the dump to empty our tanks, a young park guy came by, and when I explained the problem and asked if he had any tools, he reached into a compartment on his golf cart and pulled out EXACTLY the end we needed, and gave it to me! I gave him the dysfunctional one, which I'm sure he'll be able to repair, and thanked him profusely for his generosity. After that it was short order before Hubby and I were back on the road, continuing southward through the forests. The terrain really improved once we got out of all the seaside resorts south of Sydney, obviously a popular way for folks to spend their holidays. Anyway, we zipped along, winding our way through the forests of unknown yet beautiful trees, until it was time to stop for the night. We decided we wanted to fill up with diesel before we settled down for the night at a free camping spot in a little place called Genoa Park, but didn't see any fuel nearby. Then we saw a sign that there was fuel down a side road, and we headed off in that direction. As my fuel tank indicated kept shrinking, the distance to the gas station seemed to get farther, but at last we pulled into a little town at the end of a peninsula that had TWO gas stations, side by side. The temperatures had dropped dramatically (and we thought Australia was going to be hot!), and we were bundling up by the time we got back to Genoa Park on the main road. On the way, I saw my first live kangaroo! (I had actually seen a dead one by the side of the road yesterday, a big one at least the size of a NY deer-or me, if it had been standing up), but this one was smaller, and I managed to get a few pictures of it before moving on. Then we got back to camp, and got the shock of our trip. This unit (and apparently ALL of the Britz/Maui/Mighty brand units) doesn't have propane heat inside! The only heat is through the A/C unit, or from the front cab when the engine is running! It had been so warm at the first overnight stop that I had put the AC unit on, didn't even think about heat. We've owned half a dozen RV's over the last several decades, and every one of them had propane heat (including the "lower end" unit we rented in New Zealand), so we were stunned to learn this. I even called the road service folks to see if we just weren't able to find it, and the guy who answered said he didn't know the answer, but to bundle up and then we'd get a call in the morning to tell us how to find the heater. Not much help, but of course, that's what we had to do. I made sure Hubby had a wool cap on, we DON'T want him to get sick again. He fought a sore throat for most of the time we were in NZ, and we didn't want to repeat that! Anyway, we finally settled down for the evening, bundling up against the unexpected cold, but happy with the day!

After another quiet night at Glentunnel, and the opportunity to wash the outside and clean up the inside of the campervan, we headed out to Christchurch on a leisurely schedule. We had reservations at the Amross Motor Lodge about 15 minutes from the airport, and we didn't want to get in too early. We had a small breakfast (we were trying to run down all our groceries, but still had quite a bit leftover), then eventually headed to the hotel. I was hoping to find someplace to buy a souvenir sweatshirt, but all anyone had was hoodies, so I was capitulating to just getting a T-shirt. We had heard about a place called Re-Start, oddly described as a "high-end, shipping container shopping mall." After stopping at the hotel early and learning it would be about an hour before our room would be ready, we decided to take a drive over there, a decision we quickly regretted. Christchurch had experienced a series of very bad earthquakes back in 2010-11, and the entire downtown area was a construction zone. Dozens of roads were blocked off or redirected, large equipment was everywhere, and traffic was one big snarl. Shipping containers were stacked high everywhere, in once case it looked like it was only to protect the public from possible falling debris! We eventually made it to Re-Start, but the parking area was so small we couldn't even hardly get into it, and it was packed. One car had even just stopped in the middle of the aisle and left it! As we stood there wondering how we were going to get out, Hubby had to speak to the passenger, who evidently had to be told it wasn't a good idea to block the only path around a small loop of a parking lot, and he finally moved into the driver's seat and moved it. By this time we decided it wasn't worth the effort, and headed back toward the hotel. We took the time to fill up the campervan with fuel, grabbed a quick nosh there to get us through to an early dinner, and headed back to the hotel. It wasn't long after that we moved into a very nice room, with a full kitchenette and comfy space all around. Once we got all our stuff out of the van and into our room, we headed for the airport, where I exchanged some money, mostly into Australian dollars, but some back into U.S., in preparation for our departure tomorrow. I wasn't sure if the money exchange would be open as early as I needed it the following morning, though it turned out they would have been, as they open at 3:00 am. By this time, it was time to get the campervan back, and it was only a few minutes from the airport, so off we went! It didn't take long to get ourselves checked back in, but unfortunately, they didn't offer shuttle service anywhere except to the airport, so we had to call a taxi for the ride back to Amross. I did laundry next, while Hubby napped. Wash was fine, dryer took forever, and when I went to get more change, the proprietor suggested I hang it on the line out back! Wish I had know that BEFORE I wasted time and money on the dryer! So that's what I did, hung it up, then Hubby and I walked around the corner to a little Thai restaurant and enjoyed a nice meal before coming back, getting down the laundry, finishing packing and going to bed, VERY early, as we have to get up at 3:30 for our flight. I arranged for a taxi to pick us up at four, and jumped into the comfy bed by 7:30!

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After a night of rain, storms and wind so strong I thought it was going to knock us over, I finally got up at the crack of dawn to get started on my new project, entirely changing the next three weeks of our vacation. Once we had breakfast and headed out, and managed to get past the roadblock of a herd of sheep being moved to a new pasture (those dogs are SO IMPRESSIVE!), we stopped in a cute little town and found a cafe with free wifi. We got a couple of cups of coffee (they call it Americano here, but it's just espresso with extra water to put it in a bigger cup) and a nosh, we sat down to start tackling our new logistics. Four hours, two cups of coffee and lunch later, we had made pretty good progress. We finally headed out, arriving at the Holiday Park in Glentunnel around 4:00, where I bought another 10 gigs of wifi for NZ$5, and used it to start uploading pictures and doing more research on things to do in Australia! That went on far longer than I should have done, with Hubby falling asleep by about 8:30, and me carrying on til after 11. Finally got to bed, though, much quieter here after last night!

Woke up to sound of real roosters crowing just outside our window a good 45 minutes before the alarm went off, which was fine because I had already been awake for nearly two hours, listening to the pounding rain. As we were winding down our New Zealand leg of the journey, my mind was starting to turn to the next leg, the botched cruise. The more I started thinking about it, the more I came to the conclusion that sitting on a ship for 5 days to get to a place that we could be in less than 4 hours was a monumental waste of time. For us, vacation is about how much we can see and do in a short period of time, and with the change of itinerary of the cruise ship, we were getting on on Saturday and not getting off again until at least Thursday (at a port that had no excursions) and not in Sydney until Friday! Six days of doing nothing but sit around reading, eating, drinking, and NOT seeing anything of any country. So I concocted that idea that maybe we could try to get our money back from the cruise line (which turned out to be wishful thinking, as they had NO incentive to do that - it's a rigged system, I soon learned), but did learn that our credit card benefits included trip insurance, so with the proper paperwork we should be able to recover any losses we take by canceling the cruise. Instead, we would fly out early to Sydney, rent another campervan (they're even MORE affordable over there!) and drive around the countryside for two weeks there, fly over to Kuala Lumpur and rent a car there (it's cheaper to do so in Malaysia than Singapore, saving us even more money), and giving us an extra week there before we resume our regular schedule for Hong Kong. By the time Hubby woke up to the sound of the feral roosters, I shared by idea with him. It was such an about-face after all the planning I had done, he couldn't get his head around it, but as the day wore on, he became more and more convinced that it was a better way to go. He liked the idea of spending more time in Malaysia, his desired destination to begin with, but that was cut short by the late arrival of the cruise ship and an impending deadline to get home, so he was game to try it. It will mean a lot of logistics for me to figure out, but I was game, too. We managed to get going pretty early, and headed out for another day of sight-seeing and landscape viewing. In Middlemarch, we stopped for a quick coffee and nosh, then stopped again in Omarama at a nice little shop with a cafe in back and free wifi for customers, so we ordered a cup of tea and another nosh and proceeded to start my research, spending several hours learning about campervans in Australia and flight information and so on. There's one important phone call I need to make first thing in the morning that will set this whole thing in motion, then off I'll go, turning the next two weeks of our schedule upside down! (Tee-hee!!) We left the cafe at 5:00 when they closed, and drove through Twizel (where part of the Wargs chase from Lord of the Rings was filmed here; and the largest battle scene ever - the Battle of the Pelennor Fields - was set in a remote Twizel field, until we reached Lake Pukaki, which has the most unusal light blue color for a freshwater lake, strictly glacier blue, so different you can even see it from the satellite views on Google Earth! Closest thing I've seen to it has been around some of the islands in the Bahamas, absolutely gorgeous. We found a bit of a dune area on the far side of a causeway where many other campers had already bedded down for the night (even though it was only about 5:30), and settled down for the first hot-cooked meal in days! Though the weather had cleared up for most of the drive, it was still cloudy and occasionally spitting with rain and wind, obscuring what is no doubt an incredible view of Mt. Cook at the end of the lake, but which I am hoping will become clear later, or at least in the morning. Still haven't seen the Southern Cross, and now we're running out of time, at least in New Zealand. Settled in for the most relaxing evening we've had in a while, though we've had to put the heater on, as the mountains around the lake are still covered with snow, and I'm guessing the blue water is pretty darn cold, too! Tomorrow, we only have a few hours drive to the Holiday Park I've reserved, and I'm going to have to buy some wifi time to start getting all this stuff done for the major shift in our vacation plans!

Having left Glenorchy early and getting a head start, we delayed our departure from the Holiday Park in Kingston long enough to do a load of laundry before leaving. Nevertheless, we were still out before the checkout time of 10:00, and we headed south to the town of Bluff, which lies at the southernmost tip of New Zealand. The drive was straightforward, becoming flatter as we went, until we reached the end of the line, where this is an old lighthouse structure, and a park dedicated to those hardy souls that survived the rough weather to create a settlement there. There were two restaurants on the ride, but one of them had experienced a fire and had been closed a few months, the other was open and crowded, so Hubby and I decided to try to find someplace else in town where we could get oysters, the local specialty. We had no luck with that, and ended up driving out of town without eating, which was probably better anyway. We followed my planned route, but bypassed the Papatowai campground where I had planned to stay because it was too early in the day. We ended up making the drive all the way to Dunedin and beyond, out the Otago peninsula to a place called the Penguin Place, where there is a sanctuary for the rare yellow-eyed penguin, of which there are apparently only about 250 breeding pairs left on the mainland of New Zealand, though there are two islands further south that are apparently doing better because there are no humans around, but no one know for sure because no one lives there to count them. Anyway, after discussing the tour with the office folks, we were thoroughly discouraged that Hubby wouldn't be able to make the trek because it required some walking up and down steep steps, but he insisted I go and take pictures. After paying the requisite $54 entry fee, our tour started out about 10 minutes later, just enough time to grab a sandwich, as we still hadn't eaten all day, commiserating the Hubby was going to miss seeing the penguins. I was then treated to a 15 minute lecture on the life cycle of the penguin, then we were taken to the penguin hospital which was only steps away from the lecture room! There we saw a dozen or more juveniles being rehabilitated for a number of reasons, and we all took pictures and dutifully "ooh-ed" and "aw-ed," but I was a bit upset by this time, as they had made it sound like Hubby wouldn't be able to see any penguins at all without going to the sanctuary, and here they were just feet away! Then we were herded onto two buses and shuttled about five minutes out to the beach where there was one sole penguin on the beach, along with a handful of seals and a flock of seagulls. We were then led into trenches so that we could sneak up on a couple of other juveniles to take pictures, though all the while I was quietly seething that Hubby had been excluded from the early trip to the penguin hospital. After another half an hour of walking trenches and making the requisite noises, we finally trundled back to the buses, already 15 minutes late, to get back to the office. At that point, the woman who took the tour group on the other bus, and who had originally made a fuss about Hubby not being able to come with us, had already arrived back and disappeared, so I asked the nice young man who had toured our group (and had done a damn sight better job making it all more interesting) if it were possible for my husband to at least peak into the hospital so he could see the penguins before we leave (and it was a very long drive out to the end of the peninsula) and he kindly agreed. I gathered up Hubby and we walked over to view the penguins for about 5 minutes, for which we were very grateful, but I have to admit I was still seething over our earlier treatment. At least Hubby got to see them. But this time we were well on our way to dusk, and we headed back west along the bay, and fortunately we had noticed a couple of good spots to stop for the night not too far down the road, and selected one that was rather hidden back into the trees just a short way from the Penguin Place. We quickly settled in for the night, and frankly, wondering if it was worth all the time and effort to save just a handful of intransigent penguins who refused to adapt to the new reality. I know that sounds a bit cruel, but this group is trying to shut down all commercial fishing in the area in order to save 15 penguins. I get that commercial fishing practices should be more targeted, that a lot of waste occurs, and that can certainly be improved on, but banning all commercial fishing around the entire southeast coast of New Zealand seems like a bit of an extreme position. To casually say that the entire fishing industry could be replaced by eco-tourism is a bit too pat for those who have relied on that industry for generations. Oh well, that's a battle for another day! Off to bed!